Cong – A Place of Enchantment in Ireland
Cong is the gateway into the ancient kingdom of Connemara and was the location for John Ford’s Oscar-winning film, ‘The Quiet Man’, which starred John Wayne and Maureen O’Hara. Nowadays, it is fast becoming a mecca for leisure walkers from nearby Galway City and Continental Europe, so I decided to go on assignment to find out why.
The Quiet Man – filmed in Cong, County Mayo
A rain storm greeted my arrival in Cong on a cold, dark night and my mood for discovery and adventure was somewhat dampened. That was, until I pulled open the bedroom curtains of my B&B the following morning and gazed out the window at an enchanting landscape of woodlands, emerald green hills and distant mountains, bathed by soft, golden sunshine.
Many B&B’s across the west of Ireland seem to command great views, in peaceful, rural settings and Hazel Grove B&B is no exception. I had come to check out walking and sightseeing in the Cong area and was richly rewarded by the local hospitality, ancient heritage and stunningly scenic woodland trails and mountain treks.
My hosts, Anne and Gerry Coakley cooked me up a delicious Irish breakfast to fuel me up for the day. One of the many bonuses of going on a walking holiday is you really appreciate your meals, as you know you are going to burn up those calories along the way! We sat and talked together for almost an hour after breakfast and Gerry showed me an old traditional spinning wheel, which he had skilfully hand crafted.
Anne was also very helpful in providing advice on grades of walks, easy to follow maps and information about the local area. She has been running her own B&B for over 34 years and has seen a growing interest in nature and hill-walking. Fishing also continues to be a major attraction for anglers to Cong, with two famous fishing lakes, less than a 5 minutes drive in either direction. I learned that Cong is also an excellent base to explore Connemara and County Mayo.
A Walkers Welcome Bed and Breakfast is the best option for those on walking holidays in Ireland.
Although Cong is in County Mayo, it has a surprisingly lush appearance, due to its extensive native woodlands and crystal clear waterways, flanked by overhanging ivy-clad trees. A stroll around magnificent Ashford Castle is a must but consult your local B&B owner first for the best access routes. I began my morning stroll on the banks of Lough Corrib and gazed out at the multitude of wooded islands as I walked. It is said there is an island for every day of the year on Lough Corrib.
After a short time, I was back in the village and exploring the atmospheric Royal Abbey of Cong. The last High King of Ireland, Rory O’Connor, is buried beneath the ancient walls and the Cross of Cong is evidence that the abbey was an important centre for Celtic Art. I had the whole place to myself, which is part of the magic of touring sites in Ireland. A path led down to the river’s edge and I sat awhile in the ruins of a stone building known as The Monk’s Fishing House. The scene was truly enchanting and I could imagine myself as one of the monks contently fishing and then excitedly ringing the bell to let the cook know that supper was caught!
The path then led me across a bridge and through an ancient stone archway. This was the start of the Pigeon Hole Loop Walk; a delightful 4km circuit through
native woodland. On the way I passed towering Monterrey and Silver Pines, limestone outcrops. The entrance to Pigeon Hole Cave then came into view and a series of steep steps, with handrails, led me down into a subterranean wonderland. Ireland is a magical place for a memorable walking holiday.
When I arrived back for lunch, my B&B owner soon had a welcome plate of sandwiches, pastry and a hot mug of tea ready for me. I then gathered my trekking gear, thanked my kind hosts, and headed for nearby Mount Gable. An easy access car park at the foot of the mountain left me with a tough but rewarding 40 minute trek to the ridge. A bright, crescent moon was rising over the dusky Mayo Plains while the winter sun was beginning to set over the wild mountains of Connemara. Cong appeared like a narrow neck of land, stretched between the large inland lakes of Lough Mask and Lough Corrib, on either side. It was a breathtaking view.
I finished off my memorable short trek, back down in Cong, with a pint of Guinness in Pat Cohan’s Bar, and a friendly chat with the barman. Apparently they had a very successful debut ‘Quiet Man Festival’ in Cong last August. Pat then informed me that plans are being made to host a second one next year. ‘Now that sounds like a good excuse to return to Cong!’ I though to myself, as I bid my farewells.


Tom Sweeney
December 28, 2011 at 1:59 pmNice article, Keith, and a lovely part of the country. Was there is August on a Quiet Man pilgrimage and loved every second. T.